Commuterlite Technicalities by Jeff Brown

Hi all, if you do not know me, I’m Jeff Brown (Flapper) and as of the last BRA AGM elected to the position of Commuterlite machine examiner. As part of my role I also volunteered to help out Jim Murphy in his efforts to keep the BRA website active by providing an article appropriate to Commuterlites every month if possible. So with this in mind I would like to start with some of the topics that were discussed at the AGM in regards to Commuterlites, and how I intend to interpret the Commuterlite rule that are relative to the topics.

Firstly, if you have any queries about Commuterlites, I’m not your man. The Commuterlite Rep for the BRA is Peter Brown, no relationship here of course, and he’s the best man to contact about how to get involved in Commuterlites.

One of the topics discussed at the AGM was BRACKETS, or more to the point, the removal of brackets. Well the removal of brackets in the Commuterlite class is strictly a no no, with the exception of the following items and or descriptions.

You can remove brackets that are:

So it’s reasonably simple then to set up a Commuterlite without the need for extensive cutting and welding. Bottom line is that if you’re unsure, don't do it, as you won’t get any finish points in the Commuterlite class, and very few in the Motolite class, the equivalent of being sent to hell with 14 HP

The Commuterlite class is not about a full stripdown, racebike conversion; you cannot remove brackets that are OEM welded to the chassis or frame. All welded supports and brackets are to remain intact.

The original foot peg mounting position/bracket/supports must remain. Aftermarket items must utilise the original supports.

Even the heavy steering lock bracket must remain, along with the ignition key, barrel and the lock pin itself. This also indicates that the brackets that retain the OEM wiring loom as well as the loom itself must remain as originally manufactured. And if you intend using an aftermarket instrument panel, the original mounting system “should” be used if possible to attach the new unit. From the point of switching to the use of silhouette body panels the original “steel” brackets and panel supports that unbolt can be replaced to receive your new race glass. If you have to add a bracket or two to fit these up it is acceptable to use whatever material is applicable to the task. If as in the case of the Yamaha YZF R125, there is a 2 part mounting system, the bolt on component can be replaced or removed, but the part welded to the frame rail must remain. Along with the top fairing/instrument/headlight mount, and that’s one heavy bracket.

It makes very little difference to the performance of your Commuterlite as to whether you remove or retain brackets and supports, but the class concept is simple and simplicity is the key concept that is making the class so attractive to NEW riders as well as some of the A grade types. For the last 2 seasons that I raced my Commuterlite it has been an absolute show room example of the concept, the bike was, as of the last 1 hour race in 2012 still road registered and ridden, and over those 2 years placed a second and a third in the 1 hour enduro’s, along with a 10th outright, and would have done much better apart from this riders ability to go slow. Bog stock within the Commuterlite rules using a fuel controller, no air box and a trick exhaust with good tyres. All good, so get on with it guys and girls, ride the wheels off of your Commuterlite and when you can’t go any faster, jump on a Superlite or a Motolite, the best fun you can have on 2 wheels.

The next time I’ll get into the tighter details of looms and relays, fans and thermostats.
Cheers Flap.