Club Stuff

Bike Choices


Honda CBR125

Honda CBR125. Most popular choice by far. Cheap, fast enough, dead reliable and in large numbers makes them the most successful bike in this booming class.


Yamaha YFZR125

Yamaha YFZR125 At times have been competitive but only one or two running at the most.

KTM125 Duke

KTM125 Duke. Yet to set the class on fire. Strong midfield runner, nice to see someone trying something different..


Aprilia RS4

Aprilia 125 RS4. New for 2015, it will be interesting to see if this pretty looking Apriliia will break the Honda CBR125's stranglehold on this class.

Commuterlite Champions


Commuterlite Pro

  • 2014 Ron Pulido (Honda CBR125)
  • 2013 Anthony Marsden (CBR125)
  • 2012 Ryan Young (Honda CBR125)
  • 2011 Ron Carrick (Honda CBR125)

Commuterlite AM

  • 2014 Adam Cameron (CBR125)

One Hour Winning Teams

  • 2014 Nicolas Wenban/Ron Pulido
  • 2013 Jason Blanch/Dave Abbott
  • 2012 Steve Kairl/Graham Kairl
  • 2011 Ron Carrick/Chad Slade

 

This could be YOU! 

Get yourself a Honda CBR125 or similar and live the dream, racing in the Commuterlite Class.

17 Adam Cameron Lives the Dream

Commuterlite AM Champion. Adam Cameron started racing in Commuterlites in 2014 and won the inaugral AM Championship at his first attempt. It's called...

LIVING THE DREAM


Adam will be competing in the Commuterlite Pro class in 2015. 


Young and old are enjoying racing in this very competitive class. You owe it to yourself to give it a go.

Contact the BRA NOW!


SAVA TYRES

Oliver's Story


Oliver Hihhins Commuterlite Action


Read Oliver Higgins
account of building a Honda CBR125 Commuterlite Racer eligible for the Bucket Racing Association's (BRA) race series. This series is run in conjunction with the Post Classic Racing Association (PCRA).

Click Here for Oliver's Story...


Honda CBR125 Motor

The little Honda engine that makes it all happen for Hondas that is. Compact and almost unbreakable in standard form. Makes for economical racing.

CBR125 Motor


Inlet Port warning

Great Start for Supermono Racers

The Supermono race bikes first outing in Motolites on the South Circuit at SMB on Feb. 2013 had a brilliant start finishing 2nd overall with Steve Kairl on board. Steve on a 150cc Supermono  and Raymond Perez (197 Supermono) fought race long duels with each other and with the more established Motolite runners. The Supermono missed out on a double podium when Raymond stopped, out of fuel on the last lap.

Some brilliant riding by Steve kept the 150cc Supermono in the hunt to bring it home to a well deserved 2nd place.

Steve on the 150

Above: Steve Kairl on the limit on the 150 Supermono

SAVA TYRES

TWENTY FIVE Years of Bucket Racing

1988 to 2013

Bucket Racing Association of NSW celebrate 25 years of Bucket Racing.

25 years of bucket Racing

This Could be You!

Get yourself a
Honda CBR 125 or similar and Race in the Commuterlite Class.

Be like the 2011 Champion Ron Carrick and race in the cheapest, fastest growing class in Motorcycle Racing.

Commuterlites

74 Ron Carrick
#74 Ron Carrick teamed with
Chad Slade to win the inaugural Commuterlite one hour race.
Ron also won the first ever Commuterlite Championship

Building a Honda CBR125 Commuterlite Bucket Racer

It is now four years plus since this article on preparing a Honda CBR125 for competing in the Bucket Racings associations Commuterlite class was first written. Since then the class has grown dramatically with young and old trying their hand in this ultra competitive economical class. There are now two grades of riders Amateur and Pro. giving a progression path for riders to improve to Pro status and Pro riders to move up to Superlites, Motolites or the historic classes, P6 125s being the popular choice there. Last year (2014) saw a lot of young riders come to the fore.

Ron Pulido 2014 Commuterlite Pro Champion
Ron Pulido 2014 Commuterlite Pro Champion on the ubiquitous Honda CBR125

 

This is a slight revamp of the original article as there is much more information available on getting the most out of these machines.

The Commuterlite class allows any ADR compliant 125cc 4 stroke motorcycle, of any age to race. The Rules. have been kept very simple only allowing  changes to exhaust, suspension gearing and bodywork. These simple rules keep the costs down to the very minimum and have been creating close and exciting racing where beginner and accomplished riders alike can hone their race craft and have a lot of fun in the process.

Currently the choices are:

  • Honda CBR125
  • Yamaha YZF R125
  • KTM 125 Duke
  • Aprilia RS4
  • Kymco 125 Quannon

Of the above bikes the Honda CBR125 are by far in the majority but there has been a few Yamahas and a sole KTM 125 Duke. In the right hands any bike can be competitive the the Honda CBRs are readily available and cheap to prepare and run.

There may be other Asian bikes out there which could be eligible, however for this article we will only concern ourselves with the Honda CBR125.

Sourcing a suitable Commuterlite

Look in the Auctions, Wreckers, Gumtree, Trading post and motorcycle sales sites on the web. Usually the Honda CBR125 can be picked up cheap with superficial crash damage.

Success

So you've managed to get your hands on a donor Honda CBR125. First of all you will need to do.

First off remove all the unnecessary stuff like:

  • Headlights
  • Indicators
  • Rear mudguard and Rego plate bracket. (You will have to cut these off of the underside plastic toolbox tray and battery box container).
  • Passenger footrests and hangers. (You may need to keep the Right side one to hang the exhaust on).
  • Any unnecessary bolt on brackets on frame.
  • Standard exhaust and bin it.
  • Sidestand (beware see further on)

Race preparation

Race preparation must be done according to the MA's Road racing GCRs (General Competition Rules) which can be found in the  MOMs (Manual Of Motorcycle Sport). The manual is now published in it's entirety on the web and can be found HERE... on the MA's website.

Shopping List

To turn your rather tame CBR125 commuter bike into a competitive Commuterlite racer put the following on your shopping list:

  • Tires; 110/80 x17 rear and 90/80 x17 front (Sava seems to be the tyre to have)
  • After market sports exhaust.
  • 2 x 6mm alloy plates to raise and move foot pegs to rear. (this is not essential but it does give more ground clearance and makes it easier to get into the racing crouch)
  • Lock wire
  • Roll of pvc tape.
  • Race Numbers
  • Race number background paint (BlacK)

For Recalibrating the Fuel Injection map.

  • 1x 5K potentiometer
  • a few 1/2 watt resistors
  • 50mm clear sleeve or heat shrink to slip over resistor.


And that's it, it certainly won't break the bank

Engine

The engine must remain standard except for the modifications allowed in the rules, the CBR125 engine should be ultra reliable in this totally unmodified guise, hence keeping running costs down. The OEM ECU must be retained and rev limiter must remain as supplied.

The starter motor must remain along with the battery and standard alternator, all OEM. The bike must be able to start off of it's installed start motor at all times.

Exhaust

After market sports exhaust. a NMF pipe gave excellent results in the test bike prepared by Garry Briggs of Big Bang Engines and ridden by Stephen Kairl at Eastern Creek. Fuel Injection map will need to be recalibrated see below.
(Do not consider using the stock pipe with catalytic converter.) A good aftermarket exhaust has power and weight benefits.

Since this article was originally written other brand exhaust pipes such as Yoshimura, DBS, Endurance and homemade systems have enjoyed success.

Fuel Injection

  • Fuel Injection must be retained, carbys not allowed if fuel injection is originally fitted.
  • When a hi-performance exhaust is fitted the fuel map has to be recalibrated.

 

To recalibrate the fuel map:

  • Find the plug (3 wires) for the water temp sensor on the thermostat housing. (Underneath the petrol tank on RHS looking forward) See picture below.

  • Cut the Yellow/Blue wire and place a 0-5K potentiometer (available from Jaycar) in series. More resistance = more fuel. Should be done on a Dyno with an O2 sensor. Once the correct value has been established, replace the potentiometer with a 10c resistor of the closest standard value. When adjusting the potentiometer, the engine has to be off when changing the value from low to high, but you can change from high to low with it running.
     
  • Resistor sizes in 1.2Kohm to 1.8Kohm range seems to work but it really needs to be put on a dyno to finalise the correct value. However anything around those values should get you started. Several bikes run well on a 1.4K resistor.

 

CBR125 Fuel Injection Modification


Wiring Electrical.

All electrical equipment not required on a race bike should be discarded.

Disconnect the battery before doing any electrical work.:

Discard

  • Headlights, tail light, flasher lights and flasher unit.
  • Horn, you wont be needing it on the track.
  • It's ok with the rules to remove the radiator fan.
  • sub sections of wiring loom not needed can go but be careful when disconnecting stuff as for instance when you remove the side stand and disconnect it's switch the bike wont start.
  • As you progress through disconnecting things, reconnect the battery every other disconnection and check the bike still starts. That way you wont have far to backtrack to troubleshoot the problem.


The tilt switch has also caused some grief, if your bike doesn't start check that its in the right orientation. If it's been fitted incorrectly it sends a signal to the CPU that the bike is lying on it's side or upside down and cuts the motor.

Instrument Panel

The standard instrument panel is good to use does the job but its ok to use aftermarket gauges if it's damaged. Replacement cost of standard panel is prohibitive.

Airbox.

Originally it was recommended to remove the air filter and box  completely and leave the plastic air intake bellmouth on Fuel Injector body. Now it seems its better to leave the bottom half of air box in place along with the inlet bellmouth. Remove silencer box from plastic bellmouth and seal hole.

Fuel

No point in using exotic fuels, compression ratio too low.


Chassis Mods.


Tyres

Sticky tires. Sava 110/80 x17 rear and 90/80 x 17 front seem to be a popular choice. They must be mounted on standard OEM rims. Get the tyre fitted by your seller and have the wheels balanced. Dunlop's, Pirellis and Bridgestone's have been used with varying success.

Forks

Cut 100mm off of tighter wound end of fork spring and fit with a 100mm packing piece cut from suitable sized tubing (22mm Outside Diameter, aluminium or steel) Use a suitable size washer between spring and tube.


Rear Suspension

Rear suspension unit can be modified/changed but is fine if it's in good condition. The adjustable YSS and Elka shocks made for the CBR125 may offer some improvement but are expensive.


Rear set Footpegs

Footpegs can be left as is but they are low and can ground. Two alloy plates as per the picture below can be run up and do the job nicely getting the footrests up and back. Aftermarket footrests are available from Thailand but again bumps the cost up.

Footrests for CBR125 Commuterlite

Rear sub-frame.

To facilitate the fitting of aftermarket fibreglass seats it is permissible for the back section of the rear sub-frame to be cut off as per the picture below.

If you retain the original seat plastic tail piece (rear seat cowl) leave sub-frame in place as the rear seat cowl need it for support.

Rear Sub-frame cut off point.nbsp;

Bodywork/Fairing.


Click on pictures for larger view

 

Replica Fibreglass of original production style silhouette can be used (#74 Red bike above) but standard bodywork plastic can be used to keep costs down.

Lights and all road paraphernalia will have to be removed and headlamp openings to be covered for racing. (#59 White/Black bike above)

Otherwise race the bike naked with normal number plates (as 44 Mark Strong's bike above) Not pretty though.


Putting it all together

When you have obtained the items given in the shopping list above it's just a matter of assembling your racer. Just follow the info given above.

  • If you have bought an aftermarket exhaust it should go straight on without any dramas.
  • The original plastic can be used but the headlight holes will have to be neatly covered. This is the cheapest option.
    Racing fiberglass fairing and seat styled on the originals are available but they bump the cost up a bit.
  • The front fork spring mods. are straightforward.
  • Recalibrate the fuel mapping as above.

 

Lock wire the following:

  • Front brake caliper bolts.
  • Oil filler cap.
  • Oil Sump plug
  • Radiator water cap


Drilling small holes for the  lockwire in bolt heads and nuts require a little patience.


Safety Lockwiring

 

 

Choose your colour scheme, stick some numbers on and go racing. 

If the donor bike you bought is low mileage and the engine runs ok then don't go looking for trouble just run it. These things are dead reliable and dirt cheap to run.

Time to complete the above shouldn't take more than a day or two, certainly not more then a week, however if you are the meticulous type take as long as you like.


Good advice

As always when modifications are required especially around parts that may affect safety like brakes and controls the work must be done properly. If you are not sure of what you are doing get some expert advice or have a qualified person do the work .

All the modifications listed here are tried and tested for the race track but a certain amount of skill is required to do some of them. Scrutineering is getting stricter all the time so all the basics need to be covered otherwise you wont get to race.

Some of the modifications will make the bike illegal for street use.

To contact any of the Committee members or bike class representatives. CLICK HERE to go to the Committee Page. They are a friendly bunch and are only too eager to help.


Many thanks to Garry Briggs of Big Bang Engines for the above information.

 


 

For the Cheapest Entry into Motorcycle Tarmac Racing get on a Commuterlite

Commuterlite Sticker

WAY TO GO